Sirloin don’t get no respect.
The filet and the rib eye are always battling for steak primacy. Prime rib is the old-school choice. Strip steak is what you order when you don’t know what to get but you’re not going to get a sirloin because … nobody gets the sirloin.
Is it because you can get ground sirloin at the grocery store? Is it because too many cafeterias turned out gray, chewy sirloins that made us question our belief in God?
I order the sirloin for the same reason I order mackerel at sushi restaurants: See how a chef treats a sirloin and you’ll know if you can trust the menu. Hollie’s Flatiron Steakhouse, 1199 S. Service Road, in Moore treats a sirloin like a lady.
Does cooking steaks on the flatiron grill “sear in the flavor”? No, but it allows the chefs at Hollie’s to precisely cook their well-seasoned cuts of beef to the customer’s specifications.
My medium-rare sirloin (6 oz. for $16, 8 oz. for $22 with two sides) was actually served medium-rare, a feat not every steakhouse can replicate, sadly.
Prepared correctly, a sirloin has a bold flavor and a tender texture — not to the extremes of the rib eye (generally the fattiest, most flavorful cut) or the filet (the softest of steaks), but a wonderful middle ground.
I recommend the Steak & Roasted Yard Bird combo ($24), which includes a 6-oz. sirloin or prime rib with roasted chicken and a side. The chicken had a mild seasoning that let the perfectly cooked breast and leg meat shine through.
If you go the rib eye (10 oz. for $22, 12 oz. for $26, with two sides) route, you won’t be disappointed. This is a big steak like a cartoon cowboy would eat. Feel free to grow a mustache and feud with an indestructible rabbit.
Before the main course arrives, I recommend Pascual’s Chile Rellenos ($10 for two) as an appetizer. These big, cheese-stuffed peppers are breaded, fried up crisp and topped with a smoky tomato and corn salsa. It’s a subtle heat, so you don’t have to be a chilehead to enjoy them, but they will set your mouth watering for the rest of the meal.
Hollie’s has a soup and chili of the day, both of which can be substituted for a side, so keep that in mind when you’re ordering.
The chicken-fried steak ($16) is a massive pound of meat. While tender, it wasn’t particularly flavorful, and the gravy lacked the kind of peppery kick I hoped for. Not a bad choice, but there’s better to be had on this menu.
And if you’re the kind of weirdo who gets fish at a steakhouse, give the catfish ($15) a shot. The lightly breaded meat has a clean, fresh taste that’s not too heavy. It’s the perfect dish if you’re determined to stay awake during the feature at nearby Moore Warren Theatre.
Whatever you treat yourself to, it’s nice to know that Hollie’s is treating its steaks (and other ingredients) kindly. All the better to catch them by surprise, which just makes them taste better, in my opinion.
Hollie’s Flatiron Steakhouse
1199 South I-35 Service Road, Moore
What works: Flatiron-seared steaks and moist roast chicken.
What needs work: Side dishes are a bit lacking in flavor.
Tip: Hit Hollie’s up for lunch if you’re looking for smaller portions.
Print headline: Swell sirloin, Hollie’s Flatiron Steakhouse serves a perfect medium-rare steak. Pair it with the subtle heat of Pascual’s Chile Rellenos.